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"ISAN: FOLK & POP MUSIC OF NORTHEAST THAILAND" |
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Written by Jonathan Dean
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Sunday, 08 August 2004 |
Sublime Frequencies
The fourth DVD release from Sublime Frequencies is a 50-minute
travelogue through the rural, impoverished region of Northeast
Thailand, an area known as Isan. The culture of Isan is distinct from
the rest of Thailand because of the marked Laotian and Khmer influence.
Because of its remoteness and relative poverty, Isan has escaped the
Westernizing reforms that have affected the rest of the country, thus
their indigenous culture and unique heritage has been well preserved
throughout their years. Documentarian Hisham Mayet shot this footage in
March of this year, and has done a very good job in capturing much of
the unique character of the region. The film opens with a traditional
ceremony and festival demonstrating the rich cultural heritage of the
four dominant tribes of Isan: Khmer, Suai, Lao and Yo. It showcases
marching regalia of costumed Thai, demonstrations of skills such as
fire-breathing, synchronized sword fighting and acrobatics, culminating
in a bizarre ritual involving the crowd throwing live chickens into the
air and chasing rabbits through the grass. Laotian women participate in
traditional dances, performing beautifully expressive hand gestures,
synchronized to syrupy Thai music that blares out of a distorted PA
system. The remainder of the travelogue features mainly raw
performances on traditional Isan instruments from a random assortment
of villagers and street musicians. Mr. Ken plays a bamboo khaen, a
large double-sided row of pipes that produce a complex, richly nuanced
sound with interior countermelodies. Mr. Thongbai plays the wod, a
circular arrangement of pan pipes that make an intoxicating and magical
sound. Mr. Thongsai plays a lively folk tune on a phin, a
three-stringed lute that is played identically to a guitar. A few
scenes shot inside gentlemen's clubs in the urban centers of Isan
follow, groups of costumed girls dancing seductively in a style known
as Lam Sing. The finale was recorded on a busy Bangkok street in the
early morning hours, and represents a traditional vocal style called
Lum Glawn. A woman sings along with an amazingly proficient performance
on the khaen pipes, her dynamic vocals flowing freely at breakneck
speed, to match the sophisticated peaks and valleys of the khaen. Isan is a delightful snapshot of a relatively unknown and unsung culture.
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